Campbell McDougall

One of the healthiest inclinations I have seen recently, amongst a very unhealthy fashion industry, is the idea of working outside of the typical, broken-down model of the fashion system. The idea of showing a new collection every six months, spinning on the fashion treadmill, feels about as dated as the idea of stores getting new collections in August and marking them down in December, in preparation for the soon-to-arrive next collection.

This outdated system neither works creatively, nor economically. For designers that want to work within the niche oriented, independent world of high-research hand constructed garments, this endless six month cycle is hardly conducive to creativity and developing new ideas. That system is best left to commercially minded large fashion houses praying on an audience influenced by four page fashion spreads in equally outdated magazines.

The inspiration for creative output should be more based on other creative business models like industrial design or the music business, where one makes a new release when—and only when—one has a new idea or direction to bring forth to the public.

In this case, a designer can truly spend the work and time necessary to follow through on the research and development required, to produce something new and interesting. Does this present challenges, both for the designers and also for the shops? Yes of course—this fashion system has been in place for a very long time, and getting off of that treadmill is not necessarily something that can happen quickly and easily. Nor is it even a path that all can or should follow.

But for those aspiring to carve a new path and truly commit to innovative products—I think it is almost the only way to go. Legendary menswear designer Carol Christian Poell is cited as one of the first to attempt to completely work outside the fashion system. In business for some 20 years, most of that flying under the radar, he has done one fashion show ever (floating models down a canal) shows only in his Milan showroom and not during Fashion Week. He turns down all press and editorial requests and does not court or give items to celebrities and sells his work only to some 28 shops worldwide.

Collections used to come out annually, featuring heavy and light items—but it has now been five years since he designed and released a new collection. Product arrives, when it arrives. nothing goes on Sale. Ever.


Words by
Campbell McDougall

Photograph by
Estefania Campillo