Givenchy’s legacy, although long-established and distinct, never seems to present any limitation to the production of the brand’s most recent collections. While some Parisian designer houses tend to consistently allude to their previous styles, themes and muses in order to recall their singularities and identities, Givenchy stands on it’s own. With novelty and consistent uniqueness in its designs, the explanation is evident, a bright mind is in command and one must admit that Givenchy does particularly rhyme well with Tisci.
At his arrival as creative director of Givenchy in 2005, Riccardo Tisci was the author of a tour de force, rewriting his own vision for this Maison de Couture, without destroying its identity. Playing with the codes of the house while enriching their aristocratic nature with a dark sensuality and powerful liturgical symbols, he defined a contemporary, and subtly transgressive, yet iconic graphic silhouette.
The Spring/Summer 2015 Givenchy collection, once again, reflected Tisci’s ability to merge very different worlds: the arrogantly sophisticated, that is mystical and iconoclast at the same time. In an extemporaneous salon de couture, settled in the high school courtyard of Lycée Carnot, was a succession of willowy and eerie outlines, sharpened with tight high waists and boots in an abstemious black and white, a binary and Manichean conception livened up by an interplay of stripes, opacity and transparency, floating lace and eyelets.
This subtle debauchery of delicate lace, corseted or in flounces, as worn on a side-saddled rider in an Andalusian parade, poetically contrasted with narrow-shouldered jackets and gladiator skirts of studded and laced-up leather yokes, makes for a puzzling dialogue within a refined implementation that comes into being through these romantic amazons.
Photography Stefan Dotter
Words Anas Koubaiti