The zipped-on bits and pieces, the pannier-like extensions to the silhouette, the pockets, the backpacks, everything amplifying the notion of a man on the move, made for a collection that felt tortured, layer-upon layer overwrought.

The 13 couture looks Riccardo showed at the end of the show had a serene element. Natalia Vodianova looked like a Delphic oracle. The contrast was stark but fitting.

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Photography  Stefan Dotter