The UY Zone presentation was a celebration of the 3rd anniversary of the label’s existing in Berlin. Annually they do art performances and this year they created - together with the talented Matan Zamir - a post-war era inspired performance where all dancers wore the spring/summer conceptual collection. The earthy colours and natural fabrics represent the poorness which comes after war and all the different cuts and shapes are linked to a raw working class inspirational influence.
Post war was the main source of inspiration for the choreographer to develop the performance based on wanting to show powerlessness, exhaustion. Altogether, something that is removed far from glamour or fashion and instead gives the feeling of melancholy interlaced with the romantic notion of hope. We picked the brains of the masterminds behind the brand - Idan & Fanny.
Where did you grow up?
Fanny: I was born and raised in Stockholm, Sweden. Reached 21 years and discovered that my city was to small for me, so I moved to Barcelona in order to continue my studies in fashion design.
Idan: I grew up in Tel Aviv, Israel. But my journey started when I left the country at the age of 18 to New York.
How important is gender-bending for your designs?
Fanny: Gender-bending is one of the most important aspects for our designs. UY, from the start has been unisex for a reason. We want people to feel they have a place in UY. There is something for everybody.
Fanny: I’m open-minded and free in my sexuality.
Idan: Super gay.
Silk or leather?
Idan: Today I feel Silk.
Fanny: On fire.
Idan: In my head I’m in the spring mood.
Do you care about politics?
Fanny: I think it’s important to be aware what is happening and not to be ignorant. So yes - I do care about politics, but I'm not an activist. I don’t know if to cry or if to laugh about today’s political situation world wide.
Idan: Coming from a country that has a lot of political issues, I try to avoid politics. I feel traumatic, yet. Today it is hard to ignore politics because it surrounds you from everywhere, so I do feel aware to what’s general happening.
In turbulent times like these how important do you see the political involvement of designers?
Fanny: I think it’s great for designers/artists to have a voice in what is going on in the world. Art reaches a whole different group of people. Media and news can be so negative and biased, and to express yourself through your creations is subjective, it leaves the viewer to question things, instead of telling them how it is. As artists and designers, this is a gift we have. Ai Wei Wei’s approach to politics for example, does this exactly, which is why I have such a respect towards him and his art.
Idan: I feel that most of us having a political agenda, some rather post it in facebook and some express it by art, I think it’s great. UY Zone - its post war inspiration originate from a current political situation. Right now it feels as if we are in a pre-war time. And this made us think about the consequences of a war, and what comes right after; from there the UY Zone theme was born.
The aesthetics UY is showcasing is closely tied together with what people would expect excessive Berghain clubbers to wear. Do you like the excess yourself?
Fanny: I think an excess of anything isn’t necessarily good. But a main inspiration for us has come from our visits in Berlin and going to Berghain. This city has such a strong visual aesthetic, so it certainly affects each person when they come. In the end what matters to us is to create things we are confident with, would wear, and that this feeling can be passed on to the customer as well.
Whats your star sign?
Idan: Pisces, an intense one.
Do you think it’s going to get more chaotic from now on?
Fanny: Yes. When have things ever been non chaotic? I believe we thrive in chaos.
Idan: Sadly yes, but I’m sure we will find the way to express ourselves through it.
Photography Bobby Collins
Choreography Matan Zamir Sound LVM Production Folaji Klaeren Collective
Event Manager Leon Barth Light Michał Andrysiak Styling Dogukan Nesanir
Hair & Make-Up MINE & Susanna Jonas